Po\u010das kr\u00e1tkeho obdobia v lete 1986 bolo mo\u017en\u00e9 nav\u0161t\u00edvi\u0165 Tibet z Nep\u00e1lu bez pevn\u00e9ho a riaden\u00e9ho programu, bez podrobn\u00e9ho pl\u00e1nu a doh\u013eadu. Vyu\u017eili sme t\u00fato pr\u00edle\u017eitos\u0165, aby sme sk\u00famali tajomstvo Tibetu.<\/p>\n
Objavili sme p\u00f4sobiv\u00e9 krajiny, \u00fachvatn\u00e9 hory, snehom pokryt\u00e9 Himal\u00e1je na juhu a nekone\u010dn\u00fa skalnat\u00fa p\u00fa\u0161\u0165 na severe. Videli sme nom\u00e1dov, \u017eij\u00facich tradi\u010dn\u00fdm sp\u00f4sobom vo svojich jurt\u00e1ch, ktor\u00ed p\u00e1sli jaky a boli sprev\u00e1dzan\u00ed ostr\u00fdmi psami. \u010c\u00ednsky vodi\u010d n\u00e1s vzal, kamko\u013evek sme chceli \u00eds\u0165, a navzdory jazykovej bari\u00e9re sme sa dostali na v\u0161etky miesta, o ktor\u00e9 sme mali z\u00e1ujem.<\/p>\n
Na\u0161a prv\u00e1 nedobrovo\u013en\u00e1 zast\u00e1vka bola v dedine Nyalam: most bol odplaven\u00fd pre\u010d a my sme nemohli prejs\u0165 cez rieku. V dedine sme str\u00e1vili noc a r\u00e1no n\u00e1m dom\u00e1ci povedali o bl\u00edzkej jaskyni, kde pod\u013ea miestnej trad\u00edcie mnoho rokov meditoval Milarepa, budhistick\u00fd mystik 11. storo\u010dia.<\/p>\n
Uk\u00e1zalo sa, \u017ee cesta k jaskyni je len malou prech\u00e1dzkou od hlavnej cesty. Av\u0161ak vst\u00fapi\u0165 do nej bolo ako prejs\u0165 do in\u00e9ho sveta. Ser\u00e9nna atmosf\u00e9ra, ticho, \u017eiadni mumlaj\u00faci mn\u00edsi \u2013 len pokoj a mier. Boli sme jedin\u00fdmi n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edkmi a cestu n\u00e1m ukazoval ml\u010danliv\u00fd mn\u00edch. Boli sme dotknut\u00ed ser\u00e9nnou atmosf\u00e9rou a harm\u00f3niou v\u0161ade v\u00f4kol n\u00e1s. Nik nepovedal ani slovo. Ponoren\u00ed v sebe samom, sme sa pok\u00fa\u0161ali zotrva\u0165 v tomto zvl\u00e1\u0161tnom okamihu a prij\u00edma\u0165 vibr\u00e1cie miesta.<\/p>\n
Bolo to takmer akoby sme mohli po\u010d\u00fava\u0165 sl\u00e1vne piesne Milarepu, znej\u00face skrz \u010das. Bol to \u201eHlas Ticha\u201c?<\/p>\n
Pokra\u010dovali sme vo svojich cest\u00e1ch a pre\u0161li cez nieko\u013eko horsk\u00fdch priechodov, ktor\u00e9 boli vo v\u00fd\u0161ke viac ne\u017e 5000 m. Po\u010das n\u00e1\u0161ho v\u00fdletu sme nav\u0161t\u00edvili mnoho kl\u00e1\u0161torov v Shigatse, Gyangtse, Lhase, a hlavn\u00fd chr\u00e1m v centre Lhasy \u2013 chr\u00e1m Jokhang, no po\u010das celej doby v na\u0161ich mysliach zotrv\u00e1vala mocn\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra Milarepovej jaskyne. Mumlanie mn\u00edchov, bubnovanie na bubnoch, flauty \u010di tr\u00fabky boli len vonkaj\u0161\u00edm hlukom, ktor\u00fd sa n\u00e1s vn\u00fatorne nemohol dotkn\u00fa\u0165. C\u00edtili sme kontrast vo vn\u00fatri jednej kult\u00fary, minulos\u0165 a pr\u00edtomnos\u0165, podobn\u00e9 a predsa nesmierne odli\u0161n\u00e9.<\/p>\n
V Lhase sme po\u010duli o \u201e\u00dadol\u00ed kr\u00e1\u013eov\u201c, situovanom na juhu mesta a pova\u017eovanom tie\u017e za v\u00fdnimo\u010dn\u00e9 miesto. Dok\u00e1zali sme presved\u010di\u0165 n\u00e1\u0161ho \u0161of\u00e9ra, aby n\u00e1s tam vzal, aj ke\u010f v tej oblasti nikdy nebol, lebo turisti tam nemali z\u00e1ujem chodi\u0165. Po pr\u00edchode do \u00dadolia kr\u00e1\u013eov sme uvideli mno\u017estvo jednoduch\u00fdch vyv\u00fd\u0161en\u00edn, \u010do boli pod\u013ea turistickej pr\u00edru\u010dky hroby kr\u00e1\u013eov. T\u00edto kr\u00e1li vl\u00e1dli v Tibete pred nastolen\u00edm dynastie Dalaj Lama. Pod\u013ea hist\u00f3rie pozvali traja kr\u00e1li u\u010den\u00e9ho budhistick\u00e9ho u\u010dite\u013ea z Indie, roz\u0161\u00edrili budhizmus v Tibete a boli uctievan\u00ed ako Bohovia-Kr\u00e1li.<\/p>\n
Na vrcholku \u010fal\u0161ej vyv\u00fd\u0161eniny za parkoviskom sme objavili mal\u00fa budovu, jednoduch\u00fa gompu <\/em>(tibetsk\u00fd budhistick\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161tor), ktor\u00fd bol v silnom kontraste s n\u00e1dherou a bohatstvom lamaistick\u00fdch kl\u00e1\u0161torov a t\u00fdch gomp, ktor\u00e9 sme doposia\u013e videli. Vyst\u00fapili sme na vrch a vst\u00fapili do gompy. Po\u010das v\u00fdstupu sme poc\u00edtili pokojn\u00fa a ser\u00e9nnu vibr\u00e1ciu, podobn\u00fa tej, ktor\u00fa sme za\u017eili v Milarepovej jaskyni.<\/p>\n V gompe bola jednoduch\u00e1 socha ve\u013ek\u00e9ho kr\u00e1\u013ea Somtsanga Gampa s jeho dvomi \u017eenami, jednou z Nep\u00e1lu a jednou z Tibetu. Ver\u00ed sa, \u017ee Somtsang Gampo bol prv\u00fdm kr\u00e1\u013eom, ktor\u00fd priniesol do Tibetu budhizmus. Prostredn\u00edctvom svojich \u017eien vybudoval a udr\u017eiaval vz\u0165ahy s \u010c\u00ednou a Nep\u00e1lom, \u010do viedlo nielen k mieru a stabilite, ale tie\u017e k spolupr\u00e1ci v umen\u00ed a vede.<\/p>\n Ako sme rozj\u00edmali nad hist\u00f3riou a jednoduchos\u0165ou sochy, vst\u00fapili do gompy \u010fal\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161tevn\u00edci. Boli to Tibe\u0165ania, \u017eij\u00faci v Novom Dill\u00ed. Poklonili sa pred sochou vo ve\u013ekej \u00facte a boli tie\u017e <\/em>dotknut\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tnou atmosf\u00e9rou miesta a jeho okolia.<\/p>\n Po nejakom \u010dase sme v\u0161etci vy\u0161li op\u00e4\u0165 von a Tibe\u0165ania sa n\u00e1s polo\u0161eptom p\u00fdtali, ak\u00fd druh miesta to bol, kto boli osoby zn\u00e1zornen\u00e9 sochami, \u010d\u00edm toto zvl\u00e1\u0161tne miesto bolo, \u010do by mohlo by\u0165 zdrojom takej intenz\u00edvnej vibr\u00e1cie a ser\u00e9nneho ticha. S pomocou mojej turistickej pr\u00edru\u010dky som sa pok\u00fasil zodpoveda\u0165 faktick\u00fa str\u00e1nku ot\u00e1zok \u2013 ale zostalo toho mnoho, \u010do som vysvetli\u0165 nedok\u00e1zal…<\/p>\n V \u017eiadnom inom kl\u00e1\u0161tore sme nec\u00edtili t\u00fato zvl\u00e1\u0161tnu atmosf\u00e9ru, to ticho, t\u00fato takmer nepozemsk\u00fa vibr\u00e1ciu \u2013 tak, \u010do to bolo?<\/p>\n H\u013eadanie odpovede i spomienky na toto stretnutie s tichom, sme si vzali so sebou. A e\u0161te teraz, po viac ako 30 rokoch, \u010falej vibruj\u00fa…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919,"featured_media":2650,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false},"tags":[],"category_":[110437],"tags_english_":[],"class_list":["post-88843","logon_article","type-logon_article","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category_-zeitgeist-sk"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/logon_article\/88843","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/logon_article"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/logon_article"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/919"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2650"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=88843"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=88843"},{"taxonomy":"category_","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/category_?post=88843"},{"taxonomy":"tags_english_","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/logon.media\/sk\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags_english_?post=88843"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}